Chopstick Cinema

Celeste Heiter's Daily Adventures in Asian Food & Film

Chopstick Cinema

Torikatsu

4 boneless chicken breasts, sliced or pounded ½ inch thin
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup panko (fine Japanese bread crumbs)
Vegetable oil for frying
1 bottle Japanese tonkatsu sauce (substitute A-1)
1 package coleslaw mix or cabbage, finely shredded

Place beaten egg and panko on two separate plates. Dredge chicken breasts in egg, then in panko. Heat cooking oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Do not overheat oil or panko will brown too quickly before the pork gets done all the way through. Fry chicken until golden brown on both sides, turning frequently to ensure even browning, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels. Transfer to a cutting board and slice into ½ inch strips. Serve over steamed white rice with a mound of shredded cabbage and Japanese tonkatsu sauce. Serves 4.

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Chopstick Cinema

Set against the brilliant backdrop of Australia’s Pilbara Desert, this cross-cultural drama unfolds between tomboyish Australian geologist Sandy Edwards (Toni Collette) and reticent Japanese steel industry representative Hiromitsu Tachibana (Gotaro Tsunashima). The two are thrust together when Sandy’s boss foists upon her the task of playing tour guide to their client, which involves a five hour drive to tour the mining facilities at at Port Hedland, and babysitting him through a night of drunken karaoke. And as if that weren’t enough, in what essentially amounts to corporate blackmail, Hiromitsu subtly coerces Sandy into driving him all the way to Newman to see the world’s largest open strip mine, where the iron ore yield is sixty-eight percent.

Japanese Story takes its first plot turn when their jeep gets stuck in the red sands of the Pilbara, which forces Sandy and Hiro to spend a cold night together in the desert, followed by a collaborative effort the next morning to extricate themselves from their predicament, lest they die of thirst and exposure to the elements. This subtle shift in their interpersonal dynamics sets the stage for an extended road trip through the Australian outback.

As one might expect, even under these unlikely circumstances, what began as an odious corporate obligation, is transformed into a romantic fantasy as Sandy and Hiro become physically involved. Sharing the intimate confines of the jeep by day as they traverse the Australian countryside, and sharing a bed in roadside motel rooms by night as they explore their newfound sexual appetites, they begin to bridge the cultural gap toward a genuine friendship. That is, until things go terribly wrong.

Written by Alison Tilson and directed by Sue Brooks, Japanese Story is beautifully scripted and artfully imbued with subtle irony in its pairing of genders, cultures, and values. Character development is seamless and flawless, and in the larger picture, the story pays due homage to the three essential thematic elements: man vs. nature, man vs. man, and man vs. himself. Cinematography by Ian Baker is brilliant, and the musical theme, adapted from an old Okinawan folk song, adds its own layer of irony in the lyrics:

My wife is a flower amid a bed of thorns
How happy, how shameful, to be named unfaithful
The two of us alone, yet somehow constrained
I have dyed for you a deep blue kimono
Please wear it as a sign of my affection.

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Chopstick Cinema

Food, Glorious Food! And the thousand ways it ignites the human spirit, from a decadent culinary orgy, to a humble yet perfect bowl of steaming-hot ramen, is the stuff of which Juzo Itami’s Tampopo, is made. This bacchanalian, “spaghetti western” romp features Itami’s real-life wife, Nobuko Miyamoto in the title role of Tampopo, a noodle shop owner struggling to make a go of it after her husband’s death, and Tsutomu Yamazaki as Goro, a rakish trucker whose character might best be described as “Shane-meets-Henry Higgins.”

One rainy night, after too many hours on the road, listening to his sidekick tantalize him with passages from a book on the fine art of appreciating and devouring a bowl of noodles, Goro pulls over for a bowl of ramen at Tampopo’s shabby little roadside restaurant. When an intoxicated diner insults Tampopo’s artless cooking skills and lack of business acumen, Goro chivalrously intercedes on her behalf, only to wake up the following morning, bruised and battered from last night’s brawl, but in the blissful care of Tampopo.

Over breakfast, with her impressionable son Tabo wearing Goro’s cowboy hat and mimicking his every move, the trucker reluctantly but candidly critiques Tampopo’s noodles. “They’ve got sincerity,” he says. “But they lack guts.” Goro gives her a crash course on the fundamentals of restaurant counter service, and just before he can exit stage left, Tampopo hornswaggles him into becoming her teacher and mentor.

With that as the film’s main storyline, Tampopo and Goro embark on a quest for the perfect ramen recipe: the silkiest noodles, the savoriest broth, and just the right combination of precisely prepared toppings. As they prowl the outskirts of Tokyo, slyly querying noodle cooks, spying through cracks in kitchen walls, and snooping in restaurant garbage cans for the secrets they seek, the story takes brief excursions into the lives of miscellaneous onlookers and passers by. These wry vignettes infuse the film with a sense of humor and sometimes erotica as food becomes a motif and a metaphor for life’s more profound elements.

The cameo characters attend pretentious dining etiquette lessons, fondle fruit in the supermarket, tempt an organically-fed child with ice cream, order an elaborate gourmet meal at an austere business lunch, arise from the deathbed to prepare one last dinner, and indulge in episodes of epicurean sex play that make 9 ½ Weeks look like a bowl of corn flakes.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, both Tampopo and her noodle shop are getting a makeover. In a metamorphosis oddly reminiscent of both Rocky and My Fair Lady, Tampopo the noodle chef, and Tampopo the noodle shop, make their debut with sparkling panache and spit-shine polish.

Every scene in Tampopo is flavored with a hint of irony and, as with his other films, (which include The Funeral, A Taxing Woman, A Taxing Woman Returns, Tales of a Golden Geisha, Minbo, Last Dance, A Quiet Life, and Supermarket Woman) Itami uses his filmmaking craft to lampoon the absurdities of the Japanese way, while holding up a mirror to the foibles of human nature. Tampopo’s nonpareil scenes of bon vivant vagabonds sitting around an open campfire, critiquing the gastronomic merits of the table scraps they’ve purloined from the dumpsters of gourmet restaurants, are at once both boldly hilarious and touchingly sardonic.

Alas, the comedic genius of the ill-fated Itami was lost to the world the day he leapt to his death from the eighth floor of his office building over tabloid allegations that he was having an affair. Nonetheless, he bequeathed a legacy of buoyant humor and unique satire to fans and film lovers around the world, and Tampopo is unequivocally his best work.

So the next time you find yourself in the supermarket, staring at those ten-for-a-dollar packages of instant ramen, get a hold of yourself and go rent Tampopo instead. Treat your soul and your senses to the real thing. Itadakimasu.

Tampopo (Written, Directed and Produced by Juzo Itami, Starring Nobuko Miyamoto and Tsutomu Yamazaki, Japanese with English subtitles, 1988, 115 minutes.)

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Chopstick Cinema

The success of this dish depends upon the sequence of preparing its components. First prepare the yogurt sauce and the butter topping before cooking the noodles and meat topping. Then bring a large kettle of water to a boil for the noodles. While the water comes to a boil, prepare the meat topping, and while it’s finishing, add the noodles to the kettle of water and boil for 3 to 5 minutes. When the noodles are done, drain in a colander. Arrange cooked noodles on serving dishes, add meat topping, spoon yogurt over meat and noodles. Drizzle each portion with a tablespoon of butter topping and serve immediately.

Homemade noodles are best (see recipe below) however, they require about 2 hours to prepare, so if you are using homemade noodles, be sure to allow for extra preparation time. If you prefer, you may substitute 4 portions of dry fettuccini noodles, cooked according to package directions.

Yogurt Sauce:

2 cups plain yogurt, room temperature
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

Stir ingredients together and set aside.

Butter Topping:

1/4 cup melted butter
1/2 teaspoon paprika
Cayenne pepper, just a dash

Stir ingredients together and set aside.

Pasta:

For dried fettuccini noodles, follow package directions. To cook homemade noodles (see recipe below), bring a large kettle of water to a boil. Add noodles a few at a time and separate them with a fork to keep them from sticking together. Test for doneness at three minutes, and every minute thereafter until noodles reach the desired doneness. Drain noodles in a colander and transfer immediately to serving plates. If not serving noodles immediately, reheat them by immersing them briefly in boiling water.

Meat Topping:

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 pound ground lamb or beef
1 small onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/4 teaspoon cumin
Cinnamon, just a dash
Salt and pepper to taste

Heat olive oil in a large skillet. Add ground meat, onions and garlic and sauté until onions are translucent and meat is lightly browned. Season with cumin, a dash of cinnamon, and salt and pepper to taste.

Homemade Noodles:

2 cups flour
2 large eggs
1/4 cup water (more or less as needed)
1 teaspoon salt

Combine flour, eggs and salt in a large mixing bowl and stir with a fork. Add water a little at a time until the dough forms a ball. Turn dough onto a floured board and knead for a few minutes until dough is smooth and elastic. Cover the ball of dough with an inverted bowl and allow to rest for about an hour.

If you have a pasta maker, follow the rolling instructions and use the cutter attachment for making fettuccini. If you are rolling the noodles by hand, divide the dough into 4 equal portions, add a generous dusting of flour to the board, and roll each portion of dough into a long, thin sheet. Dust the dough sheet with flour, roll up the dough sheet jellyroll style, and cut into thin ribbons with a pizza cutter or a sharp knife. Carefully unroll the ribbons of dough and separate into individual noodles. Dust with more flour if needed.

Chopstick Cinema

This soup is a variation on two recipes, a soup called Aash-e Gojeh Farangi, and a meatballs-in-tomato-sauce dish called Kufteh Sabzi. The original soup recipe contains meatballs, but my Kufteh Sabzi recipe is so delicious that I wanted to use it instead. So I modified the Aash-e Gojeh Farangi recipe to include them.

Meatballs:
1 pound ground beef or lamb
3 tablespoons basmati rice (uncooked)
3 tablespoons lentils
2 cups water
1/2 onion, finely chopped (about ½ cup)
1 bunch fresh mint, finely chopped (about ½ cup)
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 400. Cook the rice and lentils in 2 cups of water until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside. In a large bowl, mix together ground beef or lamb, onion, mint, egg, cooked rice and lentils, cinnamon, salt and pepper. Form the meat mixture into walnut-sized balls. Place meatballs on a lightly greased baking sheet and bake for about 30 minutes, until browned. Makes about 2 dozen.

Soup:
1/2 large onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 cups beef stock
1/4 cup tomato paste
1/4 cup basmati rice
1/4 cup lentils
1 teaspoon marjoram, dried or finely chopped fresh
Salt and pepper to taste

While the meatballs are baking, heat vegetable oil in a soup kettle and sauté onion until lightly browned. Add beef stock and whisk in tomato paste. Add rice and lentils and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. When the rice and lentils are done, add meatballs to soup and simmer for about 10 minutes. Ladle soup and meatballs into individual soup bowls. Serves 4.

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Chopstick Cinema

Written and directed by Majid Majidi, this Oscar-nominated bijou captured the hearts of audiences at film-festivals all over the world. Known in the Persian language Bacheha-Ye Asemanas, Children of Heaven centers around two Iranian children, Ali and Zahra Mandegar, a brother and sister from a financially struggling Iranian family.

The film opens with close-up of a tattered pair of pink mary-janes being repaired by the work-worn hands of a cobbler in a neighborhood stall on the outskirts of Tehran. Ali’s next stop is the bakery, where he picks up a bundle of flatbread, and then to the produce market. He stows the bread and his sister’s shoes among some crates outside the produce stand while he shops for a kilo of potatoes. And in the few moments it takes to rummage through the grubby bin of seconds for the best of the worst, Ali’s whole world changes when a ragamuffin salvage peddler scoops up the bag containing Zahra’s shoes and disappears into the streets of Tehran.

Back at home, the Mandegar family is embroiled in an argument over the delinquent rent, the unattended chores, and the mother’s lingering illness. And in one of the film’s most endearing scenes, Ali and Zahra pass notes back and forth in a spiral notebook in an attempt to secretly negotiate a game plan for concealing the matter of the missing shoes from their parents until Ali can figure a way to get a new pair for Zahra.

It seems the only solution is for the two children to share Ali’s ragged sneakers, with Zahra wearing them to the morning school sessions, and then swapping them in the streets at mid-day, just in time for Ali to make it to the afternoon school sessions. Although feasible, their plan is fraught with pitfalls, as the shoes are much too big for Zahra, and Ali is continually late for class. Nevertheless, they have vowed to persevere in their plan until the end of the month when their father collects his paycheck.

Things begin to look up for the Mandegar family when the father learns of an opportunity to make a tidy sum of money as a door-to-door gardener in the wealthy section of town. And as luck would have it, the third prize for a long-distance footrace at Ali’s school is a brand new pair of sneakers. If only life were that simple.

Children of Heaven stars Amir Farrokh Hashemian as the hapless Ali, and Bahare Seddiqi as the dutiful Zahra, two remarkably precocious young actors in their first and only cinematic roles to date. The chemistry and affection between the two children is precious, and amid the plight and pathos of their predicament, Children of Heaven offers a rare glimpse into the everyday lives of a culture that many perceive as mysterious or forbidden, yet still conveys the message that the travails and triumphs of children and families from any culture are more alike than different.

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Marinade: 1 cup milk 4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 knob gingerroot, peeled and shredded (about 1 tablespoon) 1 shallot, peeled and minced 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon curry powder Salt and pepper to taste Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Add the chicken wings and stir to thoroughly mix. Allow to marinate [...]


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Every time I make this soup, I marvel at how simple yet satisfying it is. The whole process, including the handmade dumplings takes about an hour, and yields a hearty kettle of tender lamb and pillowy dumplings in a subtly spicy broth. A pot of home-made goodness that warms you from the inside out. Soup [...]


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There are only twenty days left in the 2011 calendar year, and due to a shift in focus, Chopstick Cinema will be undergoing a change of direction in 2012. So…join me throughout the remainder of the month as I count down my Top 10 Asian Films, My 10 Favorite Asian Recipes, and a few of [...]